It's just my southern hospitality!

If you have had even a passing interest in world news, you know that the United States and Pakistan are in an ongoing spat, and a number of issues this past year have caused dissatisfaction on both sides. This past week, the most recent political upheaval inspired a peaceful protest march to the U.S. consulate in Karachi. The consulate was informed there would be a protest of possibly a few hundred people, but that the protesters would not be allowed to actually reach the compound.

I should explain that the consulate in Karachi is in a self-contained compound surrounded by a high wall and is under tight security. Our office building, where all the work takes place, is about 150 yards from the residential building, where we all live. Between the two is a totally open area of sidewalks and palm trees but, since the wall is so high, it is impossible to look into the compound from the street. Or so I thought.

As I was leaving the consulate, one of the security officers cautioned me to go straight to the residence as the protesters had been allowed, in spite of what we had been told, to move up the street outside the compound and they were gathering right then. I moved on through the entrance and began my walk to the residence. I was about a third of the way when I heard the music and shouting. It wasn’t threatening shouting, and it wasn’t cheering. It was just lots of noise coming from the area outside the wall and, when I looked in that direction, I was absolutely shocked to see people—lots and lots of people—standing above the level of the wall.

So there I am in the middle of the otherwise deserted area between the two buildings, looking at these folks who are looking right back at me. Many of them were waving their arms, and it seemed to me they were waving at me. I didn’t feel threatened at all, but it certainly ran through my mind that this was a situation I had not anticipated and with which I was not completely comfortable. While I saw no indication of hostility, I also know it only takes one person with ill intent to turn a situation violent.

I quickly considered my options. I didn’t want to turn around, as that would put my back to the crowd. Instead, I did what every good southern woman from the United States would do in that situation. I smiled my biggest smile, waved at the crowd and kept moving forward to the residence, reaching it without incident.

Later, I learned that the crowd came with buses and people had climbed on top of the buses to see into the compound, thus giving me the impression they were standing above the wall. And the initial estimate of several hundred turned out to be several thousand, though that was not obvious from the numbers I saw levitating above the wall.

I have caught a lot of ribbing from my colleagues for waving at the protesters, and more than a few have suggested that the “waving” I perceived was, perhaps, less than friendly. I choose to remember my version of the event. It is the southern way.

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership (RNL), published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

Spice girl

I have just returned from two weeks in the United States to welcome my newest—and eighth—grandson. He is a great little guy, peaceful and even-tempered, and, considering that his next older brother is a real handful, I hope he stays that way, in deference to his mom.

Lately, I have been corresponding with a couple of people who are interested in what my job entails. I’ve been asked to recount my "typical" day, and I’ve given a great deal of thought about what a typical day is for me. However, there is a big picture to my job, and it can’t be answered as easily as one might think.

First of all, typical, in the sense of the types of patients I see in the clinic, depends a great deal on where that clinic is located. State Department embassy medical units are located worldwide, so health risks differ from location to location. While there might be an allergy or influenza season in any location, acid bug, malaria, dengue or Japanese encephalitis risk only occurs in some locations. However, most patients are seen for basic primary-care causes, just as in a U.S. clinic, but the daily patient load is less, as our responsibilities are broader than patient care.

Patient safety and health issues also vary by location. For example, the risk of gastroenteritis in Southeast Asia, and the community education required to prevent it, far surpasses the risk in Western Europe. When I was in Southeast Asia, evaluation for and treatment of food-borne disease was a daily event. In Prague, I have never discussed food-borne disease with a patient; it isn’t required.

My typical day in some posts might include a visit to the embassy cafeteria kitchen to observe and reinforce proper food storage and preparation practices. Our North American standards of food service are a mystery to food workers in much of the world, and it falls to the post medical unit to enforce the standards we expect.

A frequent task is evaluation of medical resources to use as consultants for the embassy community. In the majority of these cases, a continuing relationship and rapport must be nourished by frequent contact, visits with the consultant and sponsorship of social events. Medical associations in the United States are largely pure business while, in a great deal of the rest of the world, successful business requires social interaction like "tea and biscuits" to keep the relationship active.

In the beginning, I found this very difficult. I was used to calling a consultant and immediately launching into information about a patient. I've learned to be more sensitive to the cultural needs of the practitioners I call, which usually requires discussion of niceties first—"How are you? How is the family? How was your recent trip to X?"—before I launch into the medical conversation.

A typical day for me includes meetings—management, country team, emergency action committee and other committees of various sorts. I may be the medical officer, but my official duties cover many things that aren't medical at all. I admit I’m not a fan of meetings, but they are a necessary part of the job.

If variety is truly the spice of life, I have a very spicy life. Just the way I like it.

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership (RNL), published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

If you're from Georgia, I'm from Mississippi!

I haven’t lived in the United States for almost 12 years. I can’t count the number of times a week I am asked, “Where are you from?” or some derivative of that question. I always hesitate before I answer, a habit I dislike, but it is a question that does not have a simple answer, and I’m forced to think before I reply. I have to think about the actual information the asker wants, which can vary quite a bit, depending on circumstances. I realize Americans are, more and more, a mobile society, but the question, “Where do you live?” or “Where are you from?” asked by one American to another has a limited connotation. Not so for the expat.

I spent the first 20 years of my life in Texas, followed by 17 in Tennessee and 10-plus in Mississippi, before I joined the U.S. Foreign Service. Today, I live in the Czech Republic, my legal residence is Tennessee, and I own a house in Mississippi. If I am relatively sure the intent of the question is what part of the United States I call home, and the asker is foreign, I answer “From the South” Most non-Americans have as little understanding of the geography of the United States as Americans do of other countries. I learned early on that most foreigners know New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. Any place else is just a mystery and answering “From the South” seems to satisfy them. In fact, I once spent about 10 minutes on an overseas flight trying to explain to someone that I was going to Mississippi, the state, not Mississippi, the river. He never did get it.

If I am asked the question when I begin work at a new embassy posting, I know they want to know the location of my last post. If I am traveling away from my post and someone asks the question, I always answer with the city of my current residence. About 50 percent of the time, that solves the issue. Sometimes I can have great fun with this, like the time I was in Thailand and answered the question with Pakistan. The young lady behind the counter repeated it twice with a look of amazement on her face but, since the address I had put on the registration form was indeed a Pakistan address, she didn’t argue.

If I meet people from Texas, I always tell them I am, too. I still think of myself as a Texan, even though I have spent two-thirds of my life outside of Texas. I cannot remember ever meeting someone from Mississippi overseas, but if I am introduced to a person from Alabama, Georgia or another southern state, I will counter that I am from Mississippi. And, if some stranger is pushing me about my nationality, and I am uncomfortable with giving the information, I say I am from Nova Scotia. No one knows where it is, how they talk or anything about it—shuts them right up!

Is it any wonder I’m confused?

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership (RNL), published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

Thanks, Jim!

I rarely get to go to the United States for holidays and this Thanksgiving was no exception. But don’t feel too sorry for me because, while there was no turkey and dressing, I spent my holiday playing with friends in Paris. Three other Foreign Service ladies and I met in Paris for the long weekend, arriving on Wednesday and returning to our respective posts on Sunday.

I’ve been to Paris previously but this was an opportunity to see things I had not seen before and to do something I’ve long thought about. I spent seven hours one day at the Louvre, even eating lunch there. For those of you who have been to the Louvre, you know that seven hours isn’t enough time to see all of even one section—and there are three sections! But I was alone, and that meant I did not have to compromise. I saw exactly what I wanted and spent as much time as I needed to thoroughly check out my interests. I didn’t even go by the Mona Lisa. Heresy!

But what I did do, something that had been lurking in the back of my mind for some time, only took a few minutes and still has me smiling—and singing—days later. My friend Judy and I found our way to the Père Lachaise Cemetery, a veritable maze of tombs, monuments and cobblestone paths leading to hidden treasures of history, some a millennium old, and the very nondescript grave of James Douglas Morrison, better known as Jim Morrison of the Doors.

A small group of gawkers was there, very quiet and respectful. I was seized with an uncontrollable desire to sing “Come on baby, light my fire,” and most of the others joined in. Truthfully, I went there with this plan in mind but almost chickened out when I saw other people. But there I was, standing at the feet of Jim, and breaking into song seemed appropriate, even necessary. It was a great, if short, moment and the memory is still tickling my fancy days later.

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership (RNL), published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

The perfect health care system? I haven’t found it.

Even though I am an expat living in Europe, I am bombarded daily with news of the U.S. health care reform debate that seems to have our country polarized. I have seen so many other health care systems around the world that my viewpoint is probably a bit skewed from what it would be if I still practiced in America.

If there is a perfect system, I haven’t found it. My experiences vary from Guinea and Afghanistan, where there was basically no real health care available, to Mexico, where the range was from excellent to terrible, to the Czech Republic, where the care is on a par with what I would expect in the United States. I am referring to the standard of care, not the process of financing it. How health care is financed—fee for service, socialized, self-pay, etc.—is a wholly different matter, although it is a fact that if someone isn’t paying for health care in a country, it isn’t going to exist.

In Conakry, Guinea, there is one government-run hospital. The hospital is surrounded by a high wall with an iron gate. A patient who comes to the hospital must first pay an entrance fee of a few francs. No francs, no entrance—regardless of the seriousness of the illness or injury. Once inside, the patient will be seen by a physician and, perhaps, be assigned to a bed. The bed will have no sheets, no mattress. If the patient needs these things, the family must bring them. Likewise, if the patient requires any medication or supplies, including surgical supplies, the family must go to a local pharmacy and purchase them and bring them back to the hospital. The hospital carries no medications and no supplies. Not even a Band-Aid.

The patient will be charged a daily rate to cover the “overhead” of the hospital. If he can’t pay each and every day, he will be removed from the hospital. The same is true for the physician’s fee. Physicians must be paid in advance or they will not render services, as they are not paid by the government. This is also true of private clinics and medical offices available throughout the city. Either pay up front or forfeit services. This was the system that was in place when I left Guinea in 2003. If it has changed, it has only been for the worse, as the country has spiraled downward into instability.

Afghanistan’s medical system was decimated by 25 years of war. While I was posted to Kabul, various NGOs, as well as the Ministry of Health, were trying to put together rudimentary care, at least in the capital. My most poignant memory is of one day in 2004 when I learned that 17 mothers or babies had died during childbirth at a maternity hospital in Kabul. These lives were lost because there were not enough personnel at the hospital to take care of the delivering mothers. There was no system of organization at that time and, for whatever reason, most medical personnel assigned to work that day didn’t come. There were no phone lines, and mobile phones were still a rarity, so staff couldn’t alert the hospital that they wouldn’t be there and the hospital couldn’t call in replacements. At that time, Afghanistan had the highest maternal/child mortality rate in the world, so, because of a poor communication system, those 17 lives added to the dismal statistics.

I left Afghanistan in 2004 and spent a couple of months in Sierra Leone, which ended a 10-year civil war in 2001. They, too, had been stripped of a medical system that was insufficient to begin with. In fact, the only hospital in Freetown, the capital, was vacant and shuttered. The government simply had no money for medical care. A few physicians had trickled back into the country after the war and opened offices, but they were only able to provide basic services. Medications and supplies had to be imported, and sources were not reliable. As in Guinea and Afghanistan, severe lack of medical care was a bitter fact of life. I do not know actual statistics, but I feel confident in saying there are many more people in the world who have little or no modern medical care available to them than there are those who do and, while I agree the American system needs tweaking, I’m still very grateful we have it.

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership, published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

Viva Italia!

Today was a beautiful, sunny day—a real treat during this mostly gray-skies time of year in Prague. I took the opportunity to hop a tram, followed by the metro, to go to a distant shopping area and explore that vicinity of the city.

Before I joined the Foreign Service, I spent my entire life in southern United States. Mass transit really doesn’t exist in the South, other than a rather limited system in Atlanta, so being involved with some of the world’s largest and most sophisticated mass-transit systems has been of real interest to me, both in technology and in the culture of mass travel.

Most of my metro/tram experience has been in Europe, but I was also a frequent rider of the Mexico City metro, while serving in that post. Frankly, most of my colleagues wouldn’t ride the Mexico City metro, for fear of pickpockets or of being squashed to death. The latter was a real possibility, as I quickly discovered one rush hour when I witnessed a young woman trying to exit the train and be literally picked up by the oncoming rush of people and pushed back into the car. I hoped she was able to get off at the following stop.

My favorite thing about living in Moscow was the metro system. This system is HUGE! It is dependable, inexpensive and has the most artistic stations I’ve ever seen. I spent many weekends just traveling the metro and taking pictures of station decorations, which was strictly forbidden but not enforced. There are tours of the Moscow subway stations—I took one just to learn more about the history—and coffee-table picture books of the most ornate.

The culture of mass transit in Moscow is interesting. There is a set etiquette for travel, and it includes being straight-faced and, preferably, quiet. If one must speak to another passenger, it is to be done at a whisper and as quickly as possible. And one should never ever smile, nod or make eye contact with other travelers.

In contrast is travel on the Rome metro, where jabbering travelers might be entertained by a fellow commuter(s) who breaks out in song—usually opera—for a few minutes, and then finishes to raucous clapping. While Rome stations are not particularly ornate, in comparison to Moscow stations, their displays of Roman antiquities are a real plus.

In Bucharest, I sometimes traveled on the new and modern metro, usually with only a few other passengers. The line is rather limited, but so expensive that most people couldn’t afford to travel. Sure kept those cars clean and shiny, though.

In Budapest, the stations were underground shopping malls with food courts, stores, flower shops and travel agencies—sort of one-stop shopping while going to or from home. I mostly used the trams in Budapest, and I don’t think I was ever on one that wasn’t standing-room-only, which became an issue when tram police jumped on to check tickets. People without tickets would start pushing to the other end of the car, hoping to get off at the next stop before getting caught and fined. It was great entertainment, if I could get out of the way.

The metro and trams in Prague are modern and quite utilitarian, and the system is widespread. The most important thing is, they are punctual with a great frequency schedule. Unlike our neighbors to the far northeast, people happily chat and smile at each other, though not so much to strangers. On my tram ride back home today, our car was serenaded by a group of three young men—visiting Italians!

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership, published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.

Interesting people

I continue to visit medical and dental clinics in Prague, as required by my Washington superiors. The purpose is to know options for care that are most in line with our American medical philosophy. This information benefits Americans who work here in an official capacity as well as visiting Americans who call the consular office for our list of medical consultants. I’ve had the opportunity to hear interesting stories along the way, and I frequently find the unexpected.

From 1948 to 1989, the Czechs were under a communist political system. One practitioner I know completed his medical education in Prague in the late 1960s and then defected to the west, eventually ending up in Canada, where he practiced for more than 20 years. He returned to Prague a few years ago to work and reclaim the home of his youth. His story is fascinating as he tells of his struggle to learn English, pass the medical examinations required in Canada and begin a life completely cut off from the rest of his family, who remained in what was then Czechoslovakia. He made huge sacrifices to live a life free of political domination.

I met a physician born in the United States to Czech parents, who defected from communism. He completed his medical education around the time the Czech Communist Party was abolished and decided to come to the Czech Republic to help build the new medical system. He has spent the last 20 years with his foot in both societies. He has a practice in Prague and maintains an attending staff position at an Ivy League teaching hospital in the United States, working at the U.S. location several times a year. Medical residents from the U.S. program have the opportunity to rotate through a linked curriculum he administers in Prague for an overseas study semester.

My young dentist in Prague is an American who married a Czech woman. They met in the United States, where they married, lived and worked but, when their child was born, they decided to move to the Czech Republic to be near her parents. His story is equally interesting because it is the reverse tale. Although he wasn’t escaping a totalitarian government, he did have to learn Czech—a very difficult language—to pass the certifying and licensing examinations. In fact, he was the first English-speaking dentist to achieve licensing in the Czech Republic. And, of course, he had to adapt to a very different medical environment. He has great stories to tell about his experiences; in fact, they all do. Meeting these interesting people and hearing their histories is one of the most interesting parts of my job.

For Reflections on Nursing Leadership, published by the Honor Society of Nursing, Sigma Theta Tau International.